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85-0813

Yesterday, I drove out to Atwater to the Castle air museum. I’d been there almost ten years ago, but wanted to go back to see a recent acquisition sitting in their restoration hanger: an F-117A stealth fighter.

I know, the F-117 isn’t really a stealth “fighter” – it’s really more of an attack aircraft. And the ones going out to museums aren’t really stealth anymore. The Air Force is demilling the planes as they usually do when they go to museums, but on the F-117 it involves tearing off the radar absorbent skin, plus any other still-classified bits. But still, I’d never seen one in person, and I had the day off, so I decided to take a two-hour drive out to see it. And of course the whole thing became an exercise in deep thought and wondering what the hell I am doing with my life. Bear with me here.

* * *

I have an odd relationship with military aircraft. I was born on a SAC base similar to the former Castle AFB, where B-52s loaded with nuclear weapons waited for the end of the world to start so they could fly over the north pole and make their contribution. But my dad finished with the service when I was a baby, and I have no recollection of living on base. He also seldom talked about his service working on bombers when I was a kid. This isn’t how these planes got loaded into my brain.

When I was in junior high, I started learning more about planes from my friend Derik. I’d built model railroads for a while, and shifted to planes. I became completely obsessed with 1/48-scale plastic kits of various military aircraft, from WW2 fighters to modern jets. All of my lawn mowing money went to the Kay-Bee toys in the Concord Mall, where I bought as many Testor’s paints and Revell planes as I could get my hands on. I probably was stuck in model building mode far too late into my teens. I think at the age when I probably should have been interested in sports and girls, I was burning my hours on models and computers. Getting an actual car and having to move to 1:1 sanding and painting on my bondo-laden Camaro pretty much broke me out of it, though.

I have very fond memories of spending hours and hours in my basement sitting at a card table, cutting pieces from plastic sprue, listening to Rush albums on repeat, and inhaling fumes from glue and paint. There was something meditative about it, I now realize. Mindfulness is now a billion-dollar industry, filled with apps and motivational speakers and self-help books and seminars promising to get us back to the place I was at in 1985 with an F-15 kit sitting on the table. Everyone’s knitting and doing puzzles and painting, and every doctor I go to tells me I need to do something to calm the hell down. So I think about that time a lot. But I also feel a certain shame in building model planes, because I don’t want to be a fifty-something dude obsessed with what’s the best Tamiya scale aircraft, especially when the military is patrolling our domestic streets. Models also take up space I don’t have, and I never have time to do anything anymore. But all of this is still bouncing around the back of my head, making me think too much.

* * *

The drive to Atwater took about two hours. It’s funny because once I start to approach Modesto, the scenery reminds me a bit of Indiana. It goes from densely-populated city to rolling suburbs to almost nothing but farms. Driving on the two-lane California-132 through farm fields and long rows of crops looks so much like the grid of roads in unincorporated Elkhart County, an unnamed road every mile separating the farms. The one difference is it’s not corn and soybean here; it’s almonds, olives, or grapes. But it still feels like it’s the late Eighties and I’m cruising around for no reason, or maybe driving down to Bloomington. I have a 1989 playlist on my phone, which is an absolutely embarrassing list of tunes I would have been listening to at that point in time. I put that on, and even though it was almost 40 years later and I was in car with rear-view mirrors that have more computing power than most companies had back then, it still felt like I was back there.

* * *

Castle has a nice collection of planes. Some of them are pretty faded and worn by the winds and sun of the central valley. They’re trying to get the money together to build a large indoor facility for some of their collection, but until that happens, many of the exhibits are pretty beaten down by the elements. One of my favorite planes ever is the SR-71, the black stealth-looking super-fast spy plane that looks more UFO than jet. They have one at the front gate, and it’s restored and in decent shape, but it does collect dirt and mud from the storms and general agricultural debris that floats around the central valley. The other thing I wanted to get a shot of was the B-52D they have there, but it’s currently being repainted. The plane was pretty faded out when I saw it last in 2016. Right now, it’s sanded and a mix of primer, bare metal, and little bits of stray paint, and is getting redone in stages. Glad they’re getting it done again, but no photo ops yesterday.

It was oppressively hot yesterday, in the 90s but the sun made it seem even worse. I did a quick loop and took some pictures, but there wasn’t much time to loiter. I asked the people in the gift shop about the restoration facility that contained the F-117, and they gave me directions; it was in a hanger in another part of the former base.

Castle got BRACed in 95, but you can still see the remnants of the old SAC base: a giant parade ground in the middle; streets named after bombers in one direction, plane parts in the other. Stratofortress Drive has a big county human services building on it; Turbine Drive has remediated concrete pads on either side of it. Early 80s base housing that looks incredibly like early 80s base housing now contains a Korean Airlines pilot school. One runway remains, with a Christmas tree apron from when SAC had nuke B-52s on call hanging off one end. But half of the jetways are now set up for Google to test Waymo cars, this track with a maze of little loops on it, all marked with various lines the robot cars can read, I guess.

I drove to the restoration hanger, a giant WW2-looking building with room for maybe four big planes inside. It’s not open like the museum, but it’s vaguely open to the public. I talked to a guy who seemed a bit guarded about me visiting to take pictures, but we chatted for about an hour about the situation with the F-117, and how the restoration is going.

First impression: the F-117 is much bigger than I expected. I thought it was a little sportscar thing like an F-16, but it was parked next to a giant flying brick of a Navy F-4 and it felt almost comparable. It sits very high up on the gear, which are borrowed from the A-10. The museum’s plane had all of the skin stripped, the tails removed but sitting next to it, one of the engines on a cart. The leading edges and engine inlets were all gone, with the start of reconstructed pieces and cleco temporary fasteners temporarily holding them in place.

The plane looked both futuristic and but also very dated. The outside lines were all sharp and the design looked very Star Wars, but one look in a landing gear door or open panel and I could see this was straight-up 70s tech, wiring and hydraulics that were all lifted from old F-16s or F-18s. The really touchy stuff like the IR targeting gear were all missing. They had the actual canopy, which has some weird gold layer in the glass to bounce radar waves, and they got a weapons bay trapeze, which nobody else has. Their cockpit is largely intact, at least from the outside. But the secret guts inside were all missing.

This particular plane had done two missions in Just Cause and then 35 in Desert Storm. They had a sign set up by one of the two weapons bays with various pictures and autographs of pilots. 85-0813 was nicknamed “The Toxic Avenger” and had an art plaque for that. It obviously wasn’t panted on the outside of the stealth plane, on the absorbent skin. I looked inside a weapons bay and could stand on the ground upright without hitting my head. The inside looked like the guts of a late-seventies F-15A, with conventional wires and hydraulic lines mounted to the dull gray riveted skin inside. The bays also seemed shockingly small when I was up close. They typically carried only two bombs and no advanced pods or radars like modern planes. Apples to oranges, but that little sports car F-16 I mentioned could easily haul three times as much weaponry plus a gun and loads of advanced avionics and targeting systems. Sure, maybe no stealth, but it was strange to actually see the size comparison.

* * *

Another odd callback to my model airplane days. Back when the stealth fighter was a known thing but nobody had seen it yet, Testor’s came out with a model kit of it, and it was in a Tom Clancy book and a popular video game. There was this rumor that the stealth fighter was called the F-19, because McDonnell Douglas came out with the F-18, and then Northrop built the prototype F-20, so obviously F-19 was skipped for the secret plane. It wasn’t, and the Testor’s kit was just a made-up plane that looked little like the actual F-117, with smooth manta-ray wings like a sci-fi spaceship. Of course I bought one and built it, and that was the stealth fighter in my mind. When the plane was first unveiled four or five years later, I was shocked that it was the same plane, or that it even could fly. It was so surreal to come back to this 40 years later and actually touch one of them, albeit with the matte black skin missing.

* * *

On the drive home, I thought about this visit a lot, and about my obsession with this stuff. It pains me to write about this, because I’m stuck between two things here, and don’t belong to either. I mean, I spend a lot of time wandering around closed military bases for some reason, and a part of me thinks about how we spent trillions of dollars in the last 80 years, and for what? To tear it all down and leave behind superfund sites in the middle of nowhere? There’s the argument about deterrence, or projection of power, or “bringing freedom” to places like Vietnam, Iraq, or Afghanistan, which are all currently not very free.

I can’t really talk to my leftist friends about any of this. To them, these are all machines that were made to kill. America has spent 25 trillion dollars since the end of World War 2, building up a massive nuclear force that was later dismantled; invading countries that were later abandoned; stockpiling weapons for a Soviet invasion that never happened. It’s hard for me to argue against that, but it’s even harder for me to fetishize these machines when I’m talking to these people.

On the other hand, I feel like I can’t talk about that side of things with right-leaning folks, because it feels like betrayal. I feel like, according to them, I’m supposed to have unwavering loyalty to the military and to the government. And I generally feel a respect for those who served. But I don’t fully support what we’ve done or what we’re doing, especially with what’s going on now.

And I think the bigger thing I can’t talk about is that this money wasn’t wasted per se. The military is a great social experiment in a way the right won’t freely admit. It’s an experiment in socialized medical care, desegregation, a shared housing system, a government system that feeds, clothes, and educates six or seven million people. Although I’m sure the top end of companies like Raytheon or Lockheed get the bulk of the trillion dollars a year spent on building arms, but some amount of it eventually trickles down to the factory workers assembling the stuff. None of this justifies overthrowing countries or killing people. But it shows that there is the capability to spend massive amounts of taxpayer money on actual things to provide for people.

Anyway, all of this makes me think about hobbies and what I do and what I waste my time on. And I think there needs to be some change at some point. But I also realize how burned in this stuff is, and how I can’t wake up one day and say, “OK I like trains now.” Not sure what to do about that.

Categories
general

Mongolia, Hong Kong

Spent the first week of August in Mongolia with a brief stopover for dinner in Hong Kong on the way back. I had a cold on return and didn’t have the energy to get together a trip report. I’ve got a longer actual story about the trip underway, but I’ve also been hot on Atmospheres 2 which needs to get done pronto.

Anyway, before this totally gets away from here, here’s a quick bulleted list on the trip. Also, some photos are on Flickr.

  • Yes, Mongolia. It’s the giant country between Russia and China. Not to be confused with Inner Mongolia, the big chunk at the top of China. Not a former Soviet republic either, although they were obviously tight back then.
  • Everyone asks “why Mongolia” and the only real answer I have is I haven’t been there, it was not terribly expensive, I didn’t need a visa, and I knew everyone would ask “why Mongolia.”
  • Left at midnight after being awake since 4am. 14 hour flight to Hong Kong and I slept maybe 4 or 5 fitful hours in a premium economy exit row. Had a seven hour layover in HK where I wandered the airport at 5 in the morning in a state of delirium.
  • MIAT, the flag carrier of Mongolia, has a fleet of nine threadbare Boeings. I’ve never been in a more minimalist 737; I sat down and my knees were against the seat in front of me. At least they stopped flying the secondhand Antonov turboprops they kept crashing.
  • Landed and completed my longest multi-segment trip ever: 1d 1h 40m.
  • Had a driver who immediately asked me if I liked metal, even though we could only communicate with each other through translator apps. He then put on some Mongolian folk metal, which was a new one for me. (Throw “The Hu” in YouTube if you’re into that sort of thing.)
  • The airport is about 50km south of Ulaanbaatar. That will take you either an hour or five to drive, depending on the number of yaks crossing the highway.
  • Cars drive on the right side like the US, but they’re all right-hand drive, from Japan or Korea. Almost everything is a Prius with off-road tires and a three-inch lift. Imagine being awake for 40 hours and sitting in the driver’s seat of your last car, but then you realize you don’t have controls in front of you.
  • The area between the airport looked a lot like the area outside Denver: giant grass-covered plains, with mountains in the distance. I also didn’t realize we’d be at altitude – maybe 4400 feet – so it had that big sky look with giant clouds seemingly five feet above.
  • Stayed at a five-star that was a Best Western. Not a bad setup, actually. No complaints except the whole room had a single outlet, and I couldn’t get a straight answer on what power or plugs they use there. Everything online says “well, whatever.”
  • I had a rough time with food. I brought a case of Clif bars and a bunch of protein gel, expecting to be unable to eat. I could not parse any of the food options and there’s very little American chain food, so I couldn’t just go to a TGI Friday. I ate a lot of junk from a convenience store next to the hotel, which wasn’t good.
  • Mongolia has its own language, but uses the Cyrillic alphabet for the most part. Old people know Russian, and Chinese and Korean are sort of prevalent. This is probably the lowest amount of English comprehension of any country I’ve visited. This freaks some people the fuck out when I mention it, but it’s their country, and I can deal with being in a place and not knowing the language. I know probably ten words of Mongolian and could fake the rest.
  • The city looks like if Anchorage was built by the Soviets in 1961. Lots and lots of poured concrete and Khrushchevkas. Every sign on top of a building was in Cyrillic. I was across the street from a central square and a parliament that looked like it probably had a gigantic bust of Leonid Brezhnev in it until the mid-90s when it was melted down for scrap or sold to some hipster in Seattle for an art project. The city is powered by a gigantic coal plant that’s right on the edge of downtown, and the air quality is not great from that.
  • Poured rain the first day and I had no rain gear, just a down jacket that immediately absorbed five gallons of water and never dried again. I went to a Chinese tower mall, found a Sports Annex-like place and bought a far too elaborate rain jacket. I could not figure out the exchange rate and had this inch-thick fist of bills from pulling 80 USD from an ATM. I gave them a credit card and said “whatever” and I think it was like a million MNT. Got home and realized I spent like $250, which means every time you see me in the next ten years, I’ll be wearing a Mongolian raincoat.
  • I’ve said this before, but these communists love their malls. I mean, communism ended a bit ago, but if you want to see a high-end mall with zero vacancies and completely full shelves, go to a place that’s still got Stalin on the money. I grew up with these horror stories about almost empty communist stores where you have to pay a week of salary to get almost nothing, and it turns out that describes a Target in 2025.
  • Day two, I went on a big van trip with six or eight other people, like a twelve-hour junket through the Gorkhi Terelj national park. Highlights of this included a ten-story statue of Ghengis Khan on a horse where you climbed up into his head, holding an eagle, shooting a bow and arrow, camel rides (which I did not do, I’ve broken my arm enough times), visiting a nomad and drinking fermented camel milk (once again, nope), and eating lunch in a Ger (aka a yurt.)
  • Once again, I did not eat much because – well, they love horses in Mongolia, and not just riding and racing them. I absolutely did not eat any meat that wasn’t chicken on this trip. Nice people at the restaurant, but no.
  • We also went to the Aryapala temple, which involved walking up many steps and was incredibly beautiful and peaceful. Also near there, we climbed this giant granite rock formation called Turtle Rock, which I did not realize involved actual climbing climbing and going through tunnels like that one where James Franco had to cut his arm off with a pen knife.
  • On the drive home, some truck hit a cow or something and the road completely shut down. When this happens, people just start driving next to the road in the dirt. When that line of traffic stops, people drive next to them, etc. So at one point, there’s like six or eight lanes of traffic crawling through the mud and dirt completely randomly. Total chaos. The 40km drive home took about five hours.
  • The nomadic guy – Mongolia is about the size of Alaska, but with only three million people. Maybe half of that live in Ulaanbaatar, and about half are totally nomadic. They set up their ger in a random steppe and raise their livestock, then when the grass gets low, they move to another.
  • Wednesday, I had a driver who brought me to the Mini Gobi desert, just me, him, and all my camera junk in a Land Cruiser. The drive took about 14 hours round trip. Lots of mountains in the distance. Lots of livestock on the road. Stopped at what looked like the Mongolian Costco to get supplies. Also stopped at a place that looked like the Mongolian Old Country Buffet, with three dozen steam trays where you pointed and they scooped a mystery meat onto a tray with beets and rice. I had the chicken, I think.
  • Mini Gobi was cool, but honestly not 14 hours of small talk cool. We’re talking about the size of Warren Dunes on Lake Michigan, but instead of hot dog stands, there were camel rides for the kids and tourists. We also went to a small temple up in the mountains which was very quaint and also beautiful, but not like a tourist place. About half of our driving was off-road, which was pretty daunting.
  • I bought a cashmere scarf for S at the temple. There’s a lot of cashmere for sale there. A lot.
  • Picked up a horrible cold and I had to cancel a street photography tour. I’m glad I brought NyQuil/DayQuil because I went to a drug store and the closest I could find was a jar of some stuff with a horse on the label and it may have been made from snake venom or whale penis. Google Translate was useless for this.
  • I wandered the city a few times, taking some pictures. There’s the occasional brand new Chinese or Korean high-rise, a tower mall or hotel. Infrastructure in the town is fair to poor, with lots of tore-up stuff and roads that inexplicably close for no reason. Traffic is pretty horrible, and there’s no great urban planning around this. Some of the smaller side streets with shops and open markets were pretty nice though, and they do have some parks and green spaces that they’ve been very intentional about and they look beautiful.
  • I’d default to wandering around the central square, which wasn’t that heavily populated, but one day I went and there were a dozen different weddings going on. Each one had dozens of people in the party, dressed in traditional clothes, with pro photographers and selfie sticks and drones weaving everywhere chaotically. I shot some video of that and it was great fun to watch.
  • The last night, I went for a long walk in the city and was sort of bummed that I didn’t get to do more and that the cold basically shut down the end of the trip. Shuffled around and ended up in a vacant Burger King where I ate a junior whopper. BK is airport-quality. No McDonald’s; no Taco Bell; no 7-Eleven. There’s a KFC/Pizza Hut but it makes it apparent this isn’t a country with many fresh vegetable choices.
  • On the way back, same driver. He brought me to the airport and I realized this place was smaller than the South Bend airport, but every flight out of it was international. Saw horse jerky at the duty-free and yeah, no.
  • On the way back, I stopped in Hong Kong and had eight hours, so I left the airport for the first time. My luggage was checked through, so I had nothing to carry, and I didn’t need a visa as long as I didn’t go to the mainland. I took a train to Kowloon, and the whole experience was absolutely surreal. The second I landed, my iPhone asked me if I wanted to buy a virtual Octopus card, which lets you use any transit and shop at many stores and restaurants. Five minutes after leaving customs, I was on a futuristic bullet train where one could probably perform surgery on the carpeted floor without cleaning it first. I went to Kowloon and was in the bottom floor of this gigantic mega-mall of super high end stores and it took me like 45 minutes to reach the surface. It looked like a Star Wars city, with glass towers of skyscrapers and immaculately groomed greenways and paths to fancy restaurants and coffee places. Everything was in Chinese but honestly the people in Hong Kong speak English better than Americans. I grabbed a kobe beef burger at this place and then hurried back to the airport, hoping customs would not be insane.
  • Customs was completely automated, no questions, no lines. Amazing.
  • 13 hour flight home. It was weird because I got to the airport on Saturday, technically left on Sunday morning, flew 13 hours, then landed Saturday night. Got my luggage, caught an uber, and actually got home on Sunday morning.

Fun stuff. I’ve still got to deal with pictures and videos, but I wasn’t terribly happy with anything I captured. There’s a lot for context, but few real bangers. Still, a very interesting trip. That’s four new countries this year for a total of 24 now. Probably no more international travel this year, but I’m already thinking about the next birthday trip.